Taking it slowly on a barge holiday with your dog
By Kim Jones
If there’s one piece of advice I’d give to someone embarking on their first canal barge holiday it’s this: don’t expect to get anywhere fast. Leave behind that version of yourself that’s running around in circles at break-neck speed to get things done. And instead, be prepared to learn to slip into a lower gear and embrace life in the slow lane.
We recently took a delightful dog-friendly three-night autumn barge break along the Kennet & Avon canal, courtesy of Drifters Waterway Holidays and provided by Anglo Welsh and Sally Narrowboats.
Our route took us from Bradford-on-Avon to Devizes and back – a total round trip of about 20 miles.
That might seem like a short distance for three days of canal cruising. But you need to factor in the fact that on a narrowboat holiday, you won’t be zooming along anywhere fast; your maximum speed will be about four miles per hour. Yes, four miles an hour, tops. So even the slowest of walkers will outpace you on the towpath.
Also, the crew of our vessel – myself, my other half and our 17 month old dog Hugo – were all complete newbies to the big wide world of narrowboats. So it took us a little longer to get to grips with things like steering and mooring up.
And finally, bear in mind that we had 14 locks to tackle on the route, plus several swing bridges to swing open and close. So we definitely had our hands full!
Not that we’re complaining about any of it. But it’s definitely best not to overestimate how much ground you’ll cover on a barge holiday. Instead, just open yourself up to the charm of a slower lifestyle and enjoy the journey, chugging along through silent waters and beautiful unspoilt countryside. You’ll be followed by swans in search of a meal, spot flashes of electric blue as kingfishers dash through the sunlight, and take in the beautiful autumn hues of the trees lining the canal and the green countryside beyond.
And…breathe.
Day one on our dog-friendly narrowboat
Arriving at Anglo Welsh/Sally Narrowboats, Bradford on Avon Marina on the Kennet & Avon Canal, we were supplied with life vests and sat down to watch a safety video. Then we were taken to ‘Bella’ our 2-berth narrowboat. The moment I stepped into its cosy interior I felt warm and comfortable in what was to be our floating holiday home. It had a full heating system, and even a wood burner. The bedroom cabin featured a ‘four poster’ bed and a fair amount of wardrobe space. In the living area there was a small settee and tv, and the kitchen was really well equipped – with a four burner hob, oven, microwave, kettle and plenty of saucepans and cooking utensils. There was also a toilet and shower.
Getting to grips with locks, bridges and steering the narrowboat
At the marina, we were given a quick tutorial on how to operate, steer and handle the narrowboat. After that we had the chance to ask questions and then we were let loose to start our adventure. Alone. And bricking it a bit if I’m honest.
Thankfully my other half is very capable, so I wimped out and handed over complete responsibility to him on that first day – the locks, swing bridges and all of the steering while I closed my eyes and hoped for the best. It was quite a task for him to do everything himself, though. So by the second day, I realised I needed to pitch in, step up, pull on my big girl pants and be more helpful. So while we were sharing a lock with another narrowboat, I took the opportunity to hop off and get a quick ‘lesson’ from one of the other holidaymakers on how exactly these things work and operate.
You have to be fit as it’s quite physically demanding – but once you get the hang of it, and overcome the angst of getting something wrong and causing a huge flood or similar disaster – it’s actually quite enjoyable. As are tackling the swing bridges. Though on one occasion, I had to enlist the help of a couple of friendly passersby to get a particularly heavy bridge moving. Note to self: must do more weight training.
Dog-friendly canal holiday
A canal holiday can be perfect for you and your pooch. Initially, our dog Hugo was a bit nervous about the sound of the engine at the back of the narrowboat, but he soon adjusted. That said, he especially enjoyed lounging at the front of the barge, where it was peaceful and calm, giving him a view of everything ahead – and the chance to warn off fishermen well in advance.
It was also dog-friendly heaven for him because, every time we moored up, there were countless walks in all directions – whether along the towpath, through charming canalside villages and woods, or off to trot to the nearest dog-friendly pub. We were lucky enough one evening to tie up for the night right alongside The Barge Inn, at Seend Cleeve, where we enjoyed great food and the inviting vibe of this lovely canal pub.
Stopping off at the Caen Hill Flight
On day two, we arrived at Devizes, mooring up just before Foxhanger Wharf then taking the short walk to the most impressive of engineering feats, the Caen Hill Flight. It spans a steep gradient over 16 locks which take about five hours to get through.
Walking up the hill took a lot less time, and there’s a nice cafe at the top where you can survey the sight of the locks and thank your lucky stars that you didn’t have to navigate that lot in your narrowboat!
Cruising back to base at Bradford on Avon, we felt more confident of our abilities, so relaxed into things a lot more. And by the time we arrived there, I brished aside a tear to leave Bella behind. Back in the car on our journey home, we couldn’t help wondering why everyone around is was in such a rush…
Our top tips for canalboat beginners
*Make your first day on board a short, easy one. Don’t attempt a long journey, with multiple locks. Ease your self in with one or two at most! On reflection, we overestimated how far we’d get on day one, and as a result had a stressful time trying to get to our first night’s planned destination in fading light.
*Pack some food to take. That way, if things don’t go quite to plan, you’re running behind schedule and you don’t quite make it to the pub you planned to visit for dinner or get to a village store for supplies, you’ll have something to eat and cook onboard.
*Watch Drifters’ Boat Safety Video ahead of your trip to get a good overall picture of what your holiday will involve. You could also decide to test the waters with day boat hire if you aren’t ready to commit to a holiday.
*Use The Canal & River Trust interactive map to help plan your route. You can check how many locks or tunnels you’ll have to pass through, and where there are visitor moorings and boating facilities, such as water points
*Take your dog’s bed and toys with you. Anything familiar helps ease any stress they might feel at being onboard
*Pack a torch – to help you find your way back to your narrowboat after an evening walk. It’s pitch black on many parts of a canal – but the night sky is spectacular to look at when there’s little light pollution.
*Consider taking your first barge holiday with friends or family. More hands on deck really can help when it comes to getting through locks and mooring up.
Fact Box Info
Drifters Waterway Holidays offers over 500 canal boats for hire from 40 bases across England, Scotland and Wales.
There are over 3,000 miles of waterways for you to discover, all at your own pace and you don’t need to be an expert. Tuition is included as part of Drifters’ holiday packages.
2025 hire prices start at £630 for a short break (three or four nights) on a boat for four, £875 for a week.
Narrowboats range from 32ft to 70ft and can accommodate from two up to 12 people. For more information visit www.drifters.co.uk or call 0344 984 0322 For more information about visiting the canal network www.canalrivertrust.org.uk
Drifters Waterway Holidays is made up of nine hire boat companies: ABC Boat Hire, Anglo Welsh (includes Sally Narrowboats), Black Prince, Countrywide Cruisers, Foxhangers, Kate Boats, Napton Narrowboats, Shire Cruisers and Union Canal Carriers.
Anglo Welsh is allowing up to three pets for free for 2025 holidays. Other Drifters operators vary – some add a small charge for pets but all allow at least two pets.
For more information about navigating the canals, take a look at this boating safety video from Drifters
All pictures: copyright Alistair Heap. Do not reproduce or copy without permission